Why Your Kohl Pencil Might Be Older Than You Think: The Lead Problem

The Number That Made Us Rethink Kohl

We're eye makeup specialists, and for years we've recommended kohl pencils for that sultry, smoky look—the one that's been trending since the 1920s. But then we read the WHO fact sheet: at least 2.2 billion people globally have a near or distance vision impairment, and for at least 1 billion, it could have been prevented or is yet to be addressed (WHO blindness and vision impairment fact sheet). That number stopped us cold. We're not saying kohl causes blindness, but it made us question what we're really putting near the eyes. And when we dug into the history, we found something that changed how we practice: ancient kohl was often made with lead, and some modern 'kohl' pencils still contain it. So the question we're asking today is simple: Should we still use kohl pencils in 2025? Our answer: cautious yes, but only if you know what's in the tube. Here's how we decide.

What Is Kohl, Really?

Kohl is fine black powder, the precursor to modern eyeliners, and the word comes from the Arabic kuḥl. It's been used since ancient Egypt around 3100 BC, where it was made from galena—a lead sulfide mineral—and antimony, often mixed with fats or oils for application. The ancient Egyptians even gave it religious meaning: thickly lined eyes represented the restored eye of the god Horus. That's a heavy history for a makeup product.

But here's the thing: traditional kohl, in its original form, was not safe. Scientific studies have documented elevated blood lead levels among users of some traditional kohl products, especially children, and public health authorities in several countries have issued warnings or bans on lead-containing kohl (Britannica kohl). Lead is a neurotoxin, and antimony is also potentially toxic. So when a client asks for 'authentic' kohl, we have to ask: authentic to what? The ancient recipe? Because that's dangerous.

The Modern Myth: 'Kohl' Doesn't Mean 'Lead-Free'

You'd think that by 2025, we'd have sorted this out. But here's the problem: the term 'kohl' is not regulated. It's a style descriptor, not a safety guarantee. Many commercial kohl pencils are perfectly safe, but some traditional or imported products still contain lead. We've seen 'kohl' from unregulated markets that didn't list ingredients at all—which is a red flag, because manufacturers are required to list all ingredients on the container (MedlinePlus Cosmetics). If they're not listing, we don't trust it.

So our rule is: if a kohl pencil doesn't have a full ingredient list, we don't use it on clients. And if it lists 'lead' or 'galena'—that's an immediate no. But even 'lead-free' labels aren't always verified, because labels like 'natural' and 'hypoallergenic' have no official meaning (MedlinePlus Cosmetics). So we rely on trusted brands that submit to third-party testing. It's the only way to be sure.

What We Look For in a Kohl Pencil: A Comparison

When we're evaluating a kohl pencil, we compare five criteria. Here's our checklist:

We also consider the formula type. The five main eyeliner types are pencil, kohl, gel, cream, and liquid, with liquid best for sharp cat-eye lines and kohl best for smoky looks (Cosmetics history). So if a client wants a precise wing, we don't reach for kohl—we use liquid. But if they want that smudgy, lived-in look, kohl is perfect. Just make sure it's safe.

The Trend Trap: 'Traditional' Doesn't Equal 'Better'

There's a growing trend in beauty toward 'ancient' and 'traditional' ingredients. And kohl has a rich cultural history—it's even been recognized by UNESCO in 2025 as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity (Britannica kohl). But that doesn't make lead safe. We respect the tradition, but we're not going to put lead near anyone's eyes. The same goes for other traditional practices: some cultures use kohl for medicinal or religious purposes, like ithmid in Islam, which is considered Sunnah (Britannica kohl). That's a personal choice, but we can't endorse a product that might contain lead.

We've seen clients come in with 'authentic' kohl from a trip abroad, and we have to tell them: check the label. If it doesn't list ingredients, don't use it. It's not about being culturally insensitive—it's about eye safety. The eye area is extremely sensitive; complete maquillage—mascara, eye shadow, eyeliner—requires that innocuity of ingredients is essential (Britannica eye shadow). So we're not afraid to say no to a product that doesn't meet our standards.

Our Recommendation: Safe Kohl, Not Sorry

So, should you use kohl pencils? Yes, but only if you follow these three rules:

• Buy from reputable brands that list all ingredients.
• Look for third-party testing for heavy metals.
• If you're unsure, skip the kohl and use a gel or liquid eyeliner for a similar effect.

And remember, the global beauty market was about $593 billion in 2024 (L'Oréal Finance), so there's a huge incentive for brands to sell you something. Don't fall for marketing hype. We also recommend removing eye makeup before bed and not sharing products—basic hygiene that prevents infections (Cosmetics history). Because the trendiest eye look isn't worth an eye infection.

One more thing: we're not just talking about kohl. Microplastics are another issue. The EU has banned microplastics intentionally added to products, and many countries have banned plastic microbeads in rinse-off cosmetics (EU Environment, Nature Sustainability). So when you're choosing any eye makeup, think about what's in it—not just for your eyes, but for the environment. But that's a separate article.

The Bottom Line

Here's the single most important thing to remember: kohl is a style, not a safety certificate. The word 'kohl' doesn't guarantee that a product is lead-free. Always check the ingredient list, and when in doubt, leave it out. Your eyes—and your clients' eyes—are worth more than a trend.

Sources

• Cosmetics history (encyclopedia) - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmetics
• Britannica kohl (encyclopedia) - https://www.britannica.com/topic/kohl
• MedlinePlus Cosmetics (NIH) - https://medlineplus.gov/cosmetics.html
• WHO blindness and vision impairment fact sheet - https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/blindness-and-visual-impairment
• L'Oréal Finance (Beauty Market 2024) - https://www.loreal-finance.com/en/annual-report-2024/beauty-market/