Kohl vs. Modern Eyeliner: Which Eye Makeup Trend Wins on Safety?

Standing at the Beauty Counter

You're at the beauty counter, staring at two eyeliners: one is a sleek modern pencil promising a sharp cat-eye, the other is a traditional kohl pencil that whispers of ancient glamour. You've heard the warnings about lead in kohl, but you also love the smoky look it gives. Which one do you reach for? As working practitioners in the beauty industry, we've had this conversation with clients countless times. And the answer isn't as simple as 'modern is safe, ancient is dangerous.' Let's break it down.

The Ancient Allure of Kohl

Kohl has been used since ancient Egypt around 3100 BC, where it was made from galena, a lead sulfide mineral, and antimony, mixed with fats or oils (Britannica kohl). It's the precursor to modern eyeliners, and its popularity surged in the West after the 1922 discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb, thanks to actresses like Theda Bara and entrepreneur Helena Rubinstein (Britannica kohl). Even today, kohl is celebrated—UNESCO included Arabic kohl in its Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2025 (Britannica kohl). But here's the catch: studies have documented elevated blood lead levels among users of some traditional kohl products, especially children, leading to warnings and bans in several countries (Britannica kohl). So while kohl has cultural and historical significance, its traditional form is a safety gamble.

The Modern Alternative: Pencil, Gel, or Liquid?

Modern eyeliners come in five main types: pencil, kohl, gel, cream, and liquid (Cosmetics history). Liquid is best for sharp cat-eye lines, while kohl is best for smoky looks (Cosmetics history). Modern pigments include iron oxide, ultramarine, and chromium oxide, combined with waxes and oils (Cosmetics history)—no lead. But 'modern' doesn't automatically mean safe. The EU has been cracking down on microplastics, which are small plastic pieces under 5 mm that are persistent and hard to remove from nature (EU Environment). The EU estimates that between 200 and 600 Olympic-size swimming pools of microplastics are unintentionally released into the environment every year (EU Environment). Many countries, including the US, UK, France, and South Korea, have legally prohibited intentional microplastics in cosmetics (Nature Scientific Reports). So a modern pencil might contain microplastics, which are an environmental concern, though not a direct health risk to the user.

Comparing on Three Criteria: Safety, Performance, and Cultural Value

Let's put them side by side. Safety: Traditional kohl can contain lead and antimony, both potentially toxic (Britannica kohl). Modern eyeliner, if properly formulated, avoids these heavy metals but may include microplastics, which are an environmental issue. Performance: Kohl is unmatched for smoky, smudged looks; liquid wins for precision. Cultural value: Kohl is steeped in history and religious significance—think of the Bedouin tradition of making kohl from juniper and Farsetia plants, or the Wodaabe men wearing kohl during dances (Britannica kohl). Modern eyeliner has no such heritage.

Who Should Choose Which?

If you're a makeup artist working on a smoky-eye editorial shoot, traditional kohl (or a modern kohl-style pencil) is your go-to for that smudged, sultry effect. But if you're a daily user who prioritizes safety, especially around children—remember, kids can accidentally ingest or rub makeup into their eyes—modern pencil or liquid eyeliner is the smarter choice. The WHO reports that at least 2.2 billion people have vision impairment, and 1 billion cases could have been prevented (WHO). While that's not directly about eyeliner, it underscores the importance of eye health. For everyday wear, we recommend a modern pencil or liquid eyeliner, but we also advise checking the ingredient list for microplastics. Look for terms like 'polyethylene' or 'nylon'—these are common microplastic ingredients. If you're concerned, choose a brand that explicitly states 'microplastic-free.'

The Verdict: Modern Wins for Daily Use, But Kohl Has Its Place

For the average person, modern eyeliner is the clear winner for safety and versatility. But we can't dismiss kohl entirely. If you're drawn to its cultural roots, consider using a kohl-style pencil made with safe ingredients (many modern brands offer 'kohl' pencils without lead). For special occasions, a traditional kohl pencil can give that authentic smoky look—just be sure to buy from a reputable source that tests for heavy metals. And don't forget to remove your eye makeup before bed; that's a universal safety tip (Cosmetics history).

Sources

• Cosmetics history - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmetics
• Britannica kohl - https://www.britannica.com/topic/kohl
• EU Environment microplastics - https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/plastics/microplastics_en
• Nature Scientific Reports microplastics study - https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-021-97557-0
• WHO blindness and vision impairment fact sheet - https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/blindness-and-visual-impairment