Kohl Is Back: The Ancient Trend That Could Be Poisoning You

The global beauty market hit $593 billion in 2024, and among its fastest-growing trends is a nod to the ancients: kohl eyeliner. It's in every influencer's kit, from drugstore pencils to luxury brands like Dior and Sephora (Britannica kohl). But here's the thing that bugs me: we're romanticizing a product that, in its traditional form, can contain lead. And lead is not a trend I'm willing to follow.

Is kohl really 'ancient' and 'natural'?

Yes, kohl has been around since Ancient Egypt, around 3100 BC, where it was used to darken and protect the eyes (Cosmetics history). The word itself comes from the Arabic kuḥl, and it's the precursor to modern eyeliners. But 'ancient' doesn't equal 'safe.' Traditional kohl was made from galena, a lead sulfide mineral, and antimony (Britannica kohl). The very ingredients that gave it that deep, dramatic look are the ones that can be toxic. So when a brand markets its kohl as 'authentic' or 'traditional,' I raise an eyebrow. Authentic might mean lead.

Is using kohl eyeliner actually dangerous?

Here's where I get blunt: yes, it can be. Scientific studies have documented elevated blood lead levels among users of some traditional kohl products, especially children, and public health authorities in several countries have warned against or banned lead-containing kohl (Britannica kohl). Lead isn't the only villain—antimony, another component, is also potentially toxic. Now, I'm not saying every kohl pencil on the shelf is poison. Modern commercial kohl pencils are formulated with safer pigments like iron oxide, ultramarine, and chromium oxide (Cosmetics history). But the point is: you can't tell by looking. The label 'kohl' doesn't guarantee safety.

What's the difference between kohl and regular eyeliner?

Technically, kohl is a type of eyeliner, but it's not the same as a standard pencil. There are five main eyeliner types: pencil, kohl, gel, cream, and liquid. Kohl is best for smoky looks because it's soft and smudgy, while liquid is your go-to for sharp cat-eyes (Cosmetics history). But here's the catch: because kohl is so soft, it can get into your eye more easily. And if that kohl contains lead, you're literally rubbing toxic metal onto your waterline. That's not a risk I'm willing to take for a trend.

Are 'natural' or 'hypoallergenic' kohls safe?

This is the myth I want to bust: just because a product says 'natural' or 'hypoallergenic' doesn't mean it's safe. The FDA—and other regulators—don't define these terms, so companies can slap them on anything (MedlinePlus). A 'natural' kohl could still contain plant extracts that irritate your eyes. The most common causes of cosmetic allergies are fragrances and preservatives, not just heavy metals (MedlinePlus). So don't be lulled by the green-washed label. Always check the ingredient list, which manufacturers are required to provide (MedlinePlus).

Should I avoid kohl altogether?

Not entirely—but I'd be picky. If you want the smoky kohl look, choose a reputable brand that explicitly states it's lead-free and uses safe pigments. And please, don't share your kohl pencil with anyone—that's a fast track to eye infections (Cosmetics history). Also, remove your makeup before bed, no exceptions. Here's a comparison to help you decide:

Now, about microplastics: many eyeliners, especially liquid and gel, contain microplastics to improve texture and water resistance. The EU has proposed a 30% reduction in microplastic releases by 2030, and several countries have banned microbeads in rinse-off cosmetics (EU Environment; Nature Sustainability). But microplastics aren't just in rinse-off products—they're in leave-on products like eyeliner too. While the health impact isn't fully known, I'd rather not have plastic particles sitting on my eyelids all day.

Bottom line

Kohl is a beautiful trend with deep roots, but don't let nostalgia blind you to the risks. My advice: stick with modern, reputable kohl pencils that are lead-free and microplastic-free. Check the label, avoid sharing, and always wash it off at night. That's the only way to rock this trend without poisoning yourself.

Sources

• Cosmetics history - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmetics
• Britannica kohl - https://www.britannica.com/topic/kohl
• MedlinePlus Cosmetics - https://medlineplus.gov/cosmetics.html
• EU Environment microplastics - https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/plastics/microplastics_en
• Nature Sustainability microbeads study - https://www.nature.com/articles/s41893-020-00651-w
• L'Oréal Finance - https://www.loreal-finance.com/en/annual-report-2024/beauty-market/