Kohl Pencils: Ancient Glamour, Modern Lead Risk—Skip Them

Should you buy a kohl pencil for that smoky eye? The answer is no—not unless you can verify it's lead-free. Traditional kohl, the ancient eye makeup that's still sold today, can contain lead and antimony, both potentially toxic. And here's the kicker: even modern kohl pencils aren't always safe. You're better off with a standard eyeliner pencil or liquid liner that's been tested for heavy metals.

The Ancient Roots of Kohl

Kohl has been around since 3100 BC, used by Ancient Egyptians to darken and protect their eyes (Cosmetics history). It's the precursor to modern eyeliners, and the word comes from the Arabic kuḥl (Britannica kohl). Traditional kohl was made from galena—a lead sulfide mineral—and antimony, mixed with oils (Britannica kohl). In ancient Egypt, it had religious significance, representing the restored eye of the god Horus (Britannica kohl). Today, kohl is still used in many cultures, and in 2025, UNESCO added Arabic kohl to its Intangible Cultural Heritage list (Britannica kohl).

The Lead Problem Is Real

Here's the deal: scientific studies have documented elevated blood lead levels among users of some traditional kohl products, especially children (Britannica kohl). Public health authorities in several countries have issued warnings or bans on lead-containing kohl (Britannica kohl). Besides lead, antimony—a component of traditional kohl—is also potentially toxic (Britannica kohl). So if you're using a kohl pencil that's imported or labeled as "traditional," you might be smearing lead near your eyes. That's not glamorous—that's a health risk.

Modern Kohl: Not Automatically Safe

You might think modern kohl pencils are purified and safe. But the term "kohl" isn't regulated. Brands like Dior, Annabelle, and Sephora offer kohl pencils (Britannica kohl), but they don't always specify the absence of heavy metals. The FDA doesn't require cosmetics to be approved before they go on the market (MedlinePlus Cosmetics). And while manufacturers must list ingredients on the container (MedlinePlus Cosmetics), "kohl" itself isn't an ingredient—it's a type of product. So you can't tell from the label if it contains lead. The only way to be sure is to check for third-party testing or certifications.

Why Risk It When You Have Alternatives?

The five main eyeliner types are pencil, kohl, gel, cream, and liquid (Cosmetics history). For a smoky look, kohl is often recommended, but you can achieve the same effect with a soft pencil that's labeled "lead-free" or a gel liner. Modern eyeliners use pigments like iron oxide, ultramarine, and chromium oxide, which are safe (Cosmetics history). So why gamble with a product that might contain lead? The global beauty market is worth $593 billion (L'Oréal Finance), and you have countless options. Choose a liner that's been tested for heavy metals, not one that's marketed as "kohl."

Quick tip: If you're buying a kohl pencil, look for one that explicitly states "lead-free" or "heavy-metal tested." If it doesn't, don't buy it.

The Counterargument: Some Kohl Is Safe

You might argue that not all kohl contains lead—and you'd be right. Some modern kohl pencils are made with safe ingredients, and the ancient formula isn't the only one. But the problem is you can't tell which is which. The label "kohl" doesn't guarantee safety. Even if a brand claims it's safe, "natural" and "hypoallergenic" have no official meaning (MedlinePlus Cosmetics). So unless you have laboratory results, you're taking a risk. Is a smoky eye worth potential lead exposure? No.

Remember: your eyes are sensitive. Eye makeup sits next to a very sensitive area, so innocuity of ingredients is essential (Britannica eye shadow). And globally, 2.2 billion people have vision impairment, with 1 billion cases preventable or unaddressed (WHO). Don't add lead toxicity to that list.

The Bottom Line

Skip the kohl pencil. Use a modern eyeliner that's been tested for heavy metals. Your eyes will thank you.

Sources

• Cosmetics history - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmetics
• Britannica kohl - https://www.britannica.com/topic/kohl
• MedlinePlus Cosmetics - https://medlineplus.gov/cosmetics.html
• L'Oréal Finance - https://www.loreal-finance.com/en/annual-report-2024/beauty-market/
• WHO blindness and vision impairment - https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/blindness-and-visual-impairment